Solawave Neck & Chest Rejuvenating Mask for $349: While this mask is fairly comfortable, it can take a little finagling to secure around your neck. It is easy to use, but I didn’t see results on any of my neck lines. The rechargeable battery also doesn’t last long, and I charge this neck mask more often than the LED face masks I use. It’s also harder to tell when it dies on you since it’s around your neck rather than on your face. —Nena Farrell
Avoid These
Megelin Duo-Lux Laser & LED Light Therapy Mask for $799: My biggest issue with this mask is the unpleasant chemical odor. It reminded me of formaldehyde, and because the silicone sits against your face without a mouth opening, the smell is impossible to ignore and left me feeling a bit dizzy. For me, that alone is enough to make it hard to recommend, especially considering it costs about $450 more than my top pick. Also, I found plenty of customer complaints on Reddit that weren’t reflected in the reviews on the company’s site.
LED Esthetics Glotech Minis for $229: Skip these, especially if your skin is reactive. At first glance, these Glotech Minis look like they’re designed to target your under-eyes, but they can technically be used anywhere: chin, smile lines, even above your brows. They emit red and yellow light and promise visible results after four weeks of daily nine-minute sessions. In theory, they’re meant to be a convenient, travel-friendly LED option. In practice, they’re more trouble than they’re worth. The patches rely on adhesive stickers to stay in place, which is a total nightmare for anyone with sensitive skin. My eczema flared after one use, and peeling them off only made it worse. Even beyond that, the fit is awkward. The MemoryContour design doesn’t really hug your face, so you’ll likely find yourself pressing down or lying still just to keep them from sliding off. It’s a clever concept with poor execution.
Pro by Déesse Pro for $1,700: This is a hard-shell LED mask with six treatment modes and four light wavelengths. The lights are intensely bright; even with the included tanning-bed-style goggles, I had to keep my eyes shut. It requires a power outlet, and the cord is short, so don’t expect to be walking around. It’s not particularly comfortable, either. At $1,700, it’s one of the priciest options out there, and it doesn’t even come with a display stand or storage case.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Red-Light Therapy Work?
Yes, the right types of LED (light-emitting diode) can have a positive effect on the skin. Former WIRED editor Verity Burns tested Shark CryoGlow’s red-light therapy with the help of a clinician who scanned the surface of her face using Observ 520x’s analysis machine before and after eight weeks of testing. The before-and-after scans showed that her skin—particularly on her cheeks—was smoother, plumper, and brighter, and showed improvement in inflammation on her forehead, chin, and under her eyes.
Unfortunately, not everyone will see results from red- or blue-light therapy, and this might contribute to the suspicion around these skin-care devices and whether they work. You won’t know until you try, though you should talk to your dermatologist to see what they recommend based on your skin type. Be sure to also correctly implement it into your routine (more on this below).
I also recommend checking that the device you’re considering is FDA-cleared. FDA clearance means the FDA has cleared the device for marketing and that it’s safe to use. Brands go through a 510(k) or Premarket Notification process to get clearance. You can check the database to see which devices are FDA-cleared. Note that it’s not the same as FDA approval, which is a higher standard that requires more testing and research.
Topical retinoids, like over-the-counter retinol and prescription tretinoin, can also treat wrinkles and texture by slowing the breakdown of collagen and increasing skin cell turnover. Both retinol and LED devices typically take several months to show results, but retinoids come with more side effects, such as increased breakouts and sometimes flaky, burning skin.
What Are the Benefits of Each Wavelength?
Research shows that certain light can have benefits for skin rejuvenation. Red-light therapy commonly uses wavelengths in the 630- to 660-nanometer range, with the lowest effective wavelength around 600 nanometers. It can penetrate the dermis and boost collagen production, according to Abigail Waldman, clinical director of the Mohs and Dermatologic Surgery Center at Brigham and Women’s Hospital. (Collagen and elastin are proteins produced by fibroblast cells in the middle layer of the skin, under your epidermis.)
Near-infrared red lights are commonly between 800 and 1,400 nanometers. These penetrate deeper into the skin and are used mostly for healing and reducing inflammation. A study funded by NASA discovered that high-intensity red and near-infrared light significantly sped up healing in oxygen-deprived wounds in rats and boosted the proliferation of skin, bone, and muscle cells from mice and rats. NASA also supplied LED devices to the US Navy to treat training injuries. Those who used the LEDs had a 40 percent improvement in musculoskeletal injuries and 50 percent faster laceration healing over the control group.
Blue light, on the other hand, is typically 405 to 420 nm to penetrate the epidermis (the top layer of skin) and kill acne-causing bacteria. “It also reportedly helps to regulate oil production and reduce inflammation, leading to clearer skin,” says Shoshana Marmon, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant professor of dermatology at New York Medical College.
There are other lesser-known LED lights, such as green, yellow, and purple; but red and blue LEDs are the ones most backed by clinical trials.
What Is Irradiance and What Number Should I Look For?
Irradiance, in a red-light mask, measures how much power output reaches a certain area of skin per second, measured in milliwatts per square centimeters (mW/cm²). Most effective LED face masks range somewhere between 20 and 60 mW/cm². Higher irradiance doesn’t necessarily make for a more effective treatment, but when shopping for an LED mask, I’d look for one within this range.
How Do I Use an LED Face Mask?
Follow the directions for the specific device you’re using, but in general, you’ll want to wash and dry your face and use the mask before applying any skin-care products. LED therapy devices should have a set treatment time, usually between three and 10 minutes. Use it for the full time unless it feels uncomfortable. After, apply your normal skin-care products, focusing on hydration (serums and moisturizers), especially if you’re prone to dryness. Do not use these masks longer than indicated in their directions.
While you can use red-light therapy and retinoids in your skin-care routine, Waldman doesn’t recommend using them simultaneously, as it can increase the chance of irritation. She also notes that while there’s no reason to believe red light could be harmful if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, there isn’t much research involving pregnant people, so you should consult your physician first.
How Often Should I Use an LED Face Mask?
LED light therapy face masks don’t work for everyone, but consistency is crucial if you want to try it. Follow manufacturer guidelines for best use, but most dermatologists recommend using an LED face mask three to five times per week for up to 12 weeks to see results.
- Abigail Waldman, MD, FAAD, medical director of the Mohs and Dermatologic Surgery Center at Brigham and Women’s Hospital in Boston, Massachusetts.
- Shoshana Marmon, MD, PhD, board-certified dermatologist and assistant professor of dermatology at New York Medical College in Valhalla, New York.
